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Banh Khoai Hue — Not a Small Banh Xeo; the Difference Is the Bowl of Sauce

It looks like a shrunken banh xeo. But what makes the dish is the bowl of nuoc leo — pork liver, sesame, peanuts — not the pancake.

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Banh Khoai Hue — Not a Small Banh Xeo; the Difference Is the Bowl of Sauce

Photo: Charles Haynes from Hobart, Australia · CC BY-SA 2.0 · via Wikimedia Commons (cropped to 16:9 and resized)

Bánh khoái is a familiar fried dish in Hue: a small, thick pancake fried crisp in a little cast-iron pan, filled with prawn, pork and bean sprouts.

People outside Hue often call it “Hue banh xeo”. Convenient, but wrong where it matters most.

How it differs from banh xeo

Bánh khoái HuếBánh xèo
Sizesmall, thicklarge, thin
Fryingdeep-fried in a small cast-iron pan, crisp throughspread thin on a large pan
Dipping saucenước lèo cooked from pork liver, sesame, peanutssweet-and-sour fish sauce
How eatencut in half into a bowl, eaten with fresh herbsrolled in rice paper with herbs

The dipping sauce is the big difference. The pancake itself is rice batter in a pan either way. But bánh khoái’s nước lèo is thick, rich and faintly sweet — cooked from ground pork liver, roasted sesame and peanuts — while banh xeo comes with a thin, clear sweet-sour fish sauce.

Those two bowls make the two dishes taste entirely different, however similar the pancakes look.

The sauce is a cousin of nem lui’s

Bánh khoái’s nước lèo belongs to the same family as the sauce for nem lụi: both cooked from liver and peanuts, both thick and brown.

This is also where a careful kitchen separates itself from a careless one. A lazy version is either sharply sweet from too much sugar, or simply thinned soybean paste with peanuts scattered on top — you finish it with sugar sitting on your tongue rather than the taste of liver.

How to eat it properly

Bánh khoái is not rolled in rice paper. The Hue way is:

  1. Cut the pancake in half and put one half in a small bowl.
  2. Add fresh herbs — lettuce, mixed herbs, green banana, sour starfruit.
  3. Spoon the nước lèo over and eat with chopsticks.

Eat it the moment it leaves the pan. Left to cool, the shell softens and loses the crunch — and the crunch is the reason it was deep-fried in the first place.

Where and when

Bánh khoái is an evening dish in Hue, sold at small places around the citadel and the south bank of the Perfume River.

It is usually ordered together with nem lụi, since the two share the same bowl of sauce — ordering both is the most common move.

Making it at home

The pancake is not hard: rice batter tinted with turmeric, deep-fried in a small pan, filled with prawn, pork and bean sprouts.

The sauce is the hard part. Ground pork liver, roasted crushed peanuts, fermented soybean paste, sugar, fish sauce and a little sesame, simmered until thick enough to cling to the pancake without turning to paste.

How good it comes out depends heavily on the fish sauce used to season it — a concentrated sauce gives a long finish, a pre-diluted one gives only sweetness.

Other Hue dishes worth trying

Bánh bèo, nậm, lọc · cơm hến · bún bò Huế · chè Huế · tôm chua.

Specialties used in this dish

Prices are in Vietnamese đồng.

Food