Places Nam O Fishing Village — Where Da Nang's Fish Sauce Comes From
At the foot of the Hai Van Pass is a village that ferments anchovies in wooden vats for twelve months to draw off the first few drops.
Read more →Central Vietnam
Central Vietnam runs roughly 1,000km down a narrow strip of coast — mountains on one side, the sea on the other, and no two stretches alike. These pages cover what it actually costs, how long it actually takes, and what is worth your time.
We are a small shop in Đà Nẵng selling fermented fish sauces and pickles. The travel pages are what we write ourselves. We are not a travel agency and we do not sell tours — where a tour is operated by someone else, we say who, and link you straight to them.
Biển Sầm Sơn The oldest beach resort in the north-central coast, with the Trống Mái rocks and Độc Cước temple on Trường Lệ hill. Free entry · Biển Hải Tiến Biển Hải Tiến A newer beach, quieter and cleaner than Sầm Sơn. Free entry
Biển Thiên Cầm A crescent beach with clear water, still quiet compared with the beaches further north. Free entry · Vũng Áng – Kỳ Anh
Vũng Áng – Kỳ Anh A sheltered bay, known for squid eaten alive on the floating rafts. Free entry
Biển Nhật Lệ A beach right beside the centre of Đồng Hới, walkable from town. Free entry · Địa đạo Vịnh Mốc Địa đạo Vịnh Mốc A three-level tunnel system where an entire village lived underground for years. Ticketed · Đảo Cồn Cỏ
Đảo Cồn Cỏ A small island offshore with very clear water; the boat goes from Cửa Việt port. Ticketed
Biển Lăng Cô – đầm Lập An A bay at the foot of the Hải Vân pass, known for its oysters and clams. Free entry Read more
Biển Mỹ Khê A long beach in the middle of the city, fine sand, swimmable most of the year. Free entry Read more · Cù Lao Chàm
Cù Lao Chàm Islands off Hội An, a world biosphere reserve. Snorkelling over coral. Ticketed Read more · Làng chài Nam Ô Làng chài Nam Ô A fish-sauce village under the Hải Vân pass; the craft was listed as national intangible heritage in 2019. Free entry Read more
Biển Sa Huỳnh Tied to the Sa Huỳnh culture of some thousands of years ago; salt fields and yellow sand. Free entry · Bãi biển Mỹ Khê Quảng Ngãi Bãi biển Mỹ Khê Quảng Ngãi A long stretch of sand, far emptier than the Mỹ Khê in Đà Nẵng. Free entry
Đảo Hòn Khô A small island with shallow reef, good for snorkelling. Ticketed · Cù Lao Xanh
Cù Lao Xanh An island in Nhơn Châu commune, reached by boat from Quy Nhơn. The lighthouse on top was built by the French in 1890; the old name was Poulo Gambir. Ticketed
Mũi Điện – Bãi Môn One of the first places on the Vietnamese mainland to catch the sunrise, with a lighthouse on the point. Ticketed · Đầm Ô Loan
Đầm Ô Loan A brackish lagoon known for blood cockles, at its best at sunset. Free entry · Vịnh Xuân Đài – Đầm Cù Mông
Vịnh Xuân Đài – Đầm Cù Mông A ragged bay in northern Phú Yên, known for its seafood.
Vịnh Nha Trang – Hòn Mun A bay holding Vietnam’s first marine protected area. Snorkelling over coral at Hòn Mun. Ticketed · Vịnh Vĩnh Hy Vịnh Vĩnh Hy One of the finest bays in Vietnam. The coast road to Vĩnh Hy is worth riding for its own sake. Ticketed · Đồi cát Nam Cương – Mũi Dinh
Đồi cát Nam Cương – Mũi Dinh Dunes running down to the sea, close to desert. Free entry · Bãi Dài – Cam Ranh
Bãi Dài – Cam Ranh A long beach of fine white sand, where most of the resorts are. Free entry · Đảo Bình Ba – Bình Hưng
Đảo Bình Ba – Bình Hưng Small islands known for lobster, reached by boat from Cam Ranh. Ticketed · Đảo Hòn Tre
Đảo Hòn Tre The largest island in Nha Trang bay, reached by a 3,320m cable car over the sea, opened in 2007 — once the Guinness record holder for the longest over-sea cable car. Ticketed
Đảo Phú Quý An island off Bình Thuận, reached by fast boat from Phan Thiết. Still very undeveloped. Ticketed · Bãi đá Ông Địa, Hòn Rơm
Bãi đá Ông Địa, Hòn Rơm The beaches and rock shelves along the Phan Thiết – Mũi Né road. Free entry
Suối cá thần Cẩm Lương Thousands of fish crowd a shallow stream at the foot of the mountain, tied to a local legend. Ticketed · Động Từ Thức Động Từ Thức A cave bound up with the legend of Từ Thức meeting a fairy, full of oddly shaped formations. · Vườn quốc gia Bến En
Vườn quốc gia Bến En Sông Mực lake with dozens of small islands — Thanh Hóa’s "Hạ Long on land". Free entry
Vườn quốc gia Pù Mát Old-growth forest on the Lao border, with the nearly 500m Khe Kèm waterfall and the clear Mọc spring. Ticketed · Thác Sao Va Thác Sao Va A waterfall deep in the forest at Quế Phong, the water a jade green.
Hang Sơn Đoòng The largest cave in the world, with its own forest and its own weather inside. Entry only on the six-day Oxalis tour. Ticketed · Hang Én
Hang Én The third largest cave in the world; the tour camps overnight on the sand inside it. Ticketed · Suối Nước Moọc – sông Chày Suối Nước Moọc – sông Chày Swimming and kayaking in the core zone of Phong Nha. Ticketed · Hệ thống hang động Tú Làn
Hệ thống hang động Tú Làn A cluster of dry and river caves at Minh Hóa — Hang Ken, Hung Ton, Hang Kim and Tú Làn itself. Permit tours only, one-day or overnight camping. Ticketed
Vườn quốc gia Bạch Mã Old-growth forest at altitude, with the Đỗ Quyên waterfall and a lookout over the sea. Ticketed Read more
Bà Nà Hills – Cầu Vàng The bridge held up by two stone hands, opened in 2018 and quickly one of the images of Vietnam. Ticketed Read more · Ngũ Hành Sơn Ngũ Hành Sơn Five limestone hills named for the five elements. In Huyền Không cave, shafts of sunlight fall through the roof. Ticketed Read more · Rừng dừa Bảy Mẫu
Rừng dừa Bảy Mẫu Paddling round basket boats through the water-coconut palms at Cẩm Thanh, Hội An. Ticketed Read more · Đèo Hải Vân
Đèo Hải Vân The pass road looking down over Đà Nẵng bay, with the Hải Vân Quan gate at the top. Free entry Read more
Măng Đen A town among pine forest on the plateau, cool all year. People call it the second Đà Lạt. Ticketed · Thác Pa Sỹ Thác Pa Sỹ A three-strand waterfall in the pine forest at Măng Đen. Ticketed
Biển Hồ (T'Nưng) A lake in an extinct volcanic crater at Pleiku, called the eyes of Pleiku. Free entry · Núi lửa Chư Đăng Ya Núi lửa Chư Đăng Ya A crater that turns yellow with wild sunflowers around November. · Thác Phú Cường Thác Phú Cường A waterfall over 45m dropping onto basalt at Chư Sê. Ticketed
Thác Dray Nur – Dray Sáp Big falls on the Sêrêpốk river; you can walk behind the water. Ticketed · Hồ Lắk
Hồ Lắk The largest natural freshwater lake in the Central Highlands, with the M’Nông village of Jun on its shore. Ticketed · Buôn Đôn
Buôn Đôn The country of elephant catching and taming, with a suspension bridge over the Sêrêpốk. Ticketed
Hang Rái Ancient coral rock stacked like steps, best at sunrise when the waves break through the channels. Ticketed
Bàu Trắng A freshwater lake among white dunes, also called Bàu Sen. The lotuses open around May to July. Free entry · Thác Đray Sáp – Gia Long
Thác Đray Sáp – Gia Long Falls on the Sêrêpốk on the Đắk Nông side. Ticketed · Hồ Tuyền Lâm – Thiền viện Trúc Lâm
Hồ Tuyền Lâm – Thiền viện Trúc Lâm A wide lake in pine forest, reached by cable car down from Đà Lạt. Ticketed
Đền Ông Hoàng Mười A temple in Hưng Nguyên with a reputation for granting wishes; busiest at the tenth lunar month festival. Free entry · Làng nghề tương Nam Đàn Làng nghề tương Nam Đàn Watch soy paste fermented the traditional way, in earthenware jars left out in the sun. Free entry
Khu lưu niệm Nguyễn Du A memorial to the poet who wrote the Tale of Kiều, at Nghi Xuân. Ticketed
Thành cổ Quảng Trị The site of the 81 days and nights of summer 1972, on the bank of the Thạch Hãn river. Free entry · Cầu Hiền Lương – sông Bến Hải
Cầu Hiền Lương – sông Bến Hải The line that divided the country from 1954 to 1975. Free entry · Khe Sanh – Tà Cơn
Khe Sanh – Tà Cơn The old Khe Sanh battlefield in Hướng Hóa, where the Tà Cơn airstrip remains. Coffee hills and wind turbines around it, about 65km from Đông Hà. Ticketed
Lăng Khải Định The smallest of the royal tombs and by far the most worked: every surface inlaid with porcelain and glass. Ticketed Read more · Lăng Tự Đức
Lăng Tự Đức Park-sized, with a lotus lake and the pavilion where the emperor wrote poetry. Ticketed Read more · Lăng Minh Mạng
Lăng Minh Mạng A strictly symmetrical layout among pine forest, by the Bằng Lãng confluence. Ticketed Read more · Chùa Thiên Mụ
Chùa Thiên Mụ The pagoda that stands for Huế, on the Perfume River, with its seven-tier Phước Duyên tower. Ticketed Read more
Phố cổ Hội An An old trading town listed by UNESCO in 1999. Best on the 14th of the lunar month, when the electric lights go off and lanterns go on the river. Ticketed Read more · Thánh địa Mỹ Sơn
Thánh địa Mỹ Sơn A valley of Chăm Pa temple towers, listed by UNESCO in 1999. Ticketed Read more
Nhà thờ gỗ Kon Tum A church built entirely of wood, Romanesque crossed with the Central Highlands rông house. Over a hundred years old. Free entry · Nhà rông Kon Klor
Nhà rông Kon Klor The largest rông house in the Central Highlands, its roof pitched steeply upward. Free entry
Tháp Đôi, tháp Bánh Ít Chăm tower groups still standing, in and just outside Quy Nhơn. Ticketed · Bảo tàng Quang Trung
Bảo tàng Quang Trung On the home ground of the Tây Sơn uprising, with martial arts and battle drums performed. Ticketed · Chùa Minh Thành
Chùa Minh Thành A pagoda in Pleiku with Japanese-influenced architecture and a tall tiered tower. Free entry
Bảo tàng Thế giới Cà phê A museum in Buôn Ma Thuột, its architecture drawn from the Ê Đê longhouse. Ticketed · Nhà đày Buôn Ma Thuột
Nhà đày Buôn Ma Thuột A French colonial prison, right in the city. Ticketed
Tháp Bà Ponagar Chăm towers at the mouth of the Cái river, dedicated to the goddess Po Nagar; the rites and Chăm dance continue. Ticketed
Tháp Chàm Po Sah Inư Old Chăm towers on Bà Nài hill, looking over Phan Thiết. Ticketed
Sông Hương – cầu Trường Tiền Take a dragon boat in the evening for Huế songs and floating lanterns. Free entry Read more · Chợ Đông Ba
Chợ Đông Ba The central market, over a hundred years old — where you buy mè xửng and tôm chua. Free entry Read more
Vườn nho Ninh Thuận The largest grape-growing area in Vietnam. Walk into a vineyard, pick and buy on the spot. Free entry · Đồng cừu An Hòa Đồng cừu An Hòa Sheep grazing dry grassland — a sight you get only in Ninh Thuận. Ticketed
Places At the foot of the Hai Van Pass is a village that ferments anchovies in wooden vats for twelve months to draw off the first few drops.
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Places Ask anyone in Da Nang where to buy food to take home and nine will say Han Market. The tenth will say Con Market.
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Places People in Da Nang do not go to Con Market to shop. They go to eat.
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Places Twenty minutes from the city centre: old-growth forest, monkeys crossing the road, and beaches with almost nobody on them.
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Places Five limestone hills rising out of flat ground, named after the five elements. Inside them is a system of caves and temples.
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Places At nine on a weekend night, a steel dragon nearly 700 metres long breathes fire over the Han River. Half the city comes out to watch.
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Food Double-skinned pork, a dozen kinds of herb, dew-dried rice paper — but what decides everything is still the bowl of fermented anchovy sauce.
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Food No broth, no stockpot. The whole bowl rests on one thing: a well-mixed bowl of fermented anchovy sauce.
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Food Bones for sweetness, lemongrass and chilli for aroma. That thick, lingering depth behind every spoonful — that is the shrimp paste.
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Food Do not drown it. Mi Quang needs only a little thick sauce at the bottom of the bowl — enough to coat the noodles, not enough to drink.
Read more →Herring straight off the boat, cured in lime, wrapped with forest leaves. A fishermen's dish, and not one for people in a hurry.
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Food Not a banquet. Just rice, a light soup, one savoury dish and a jar of fermented fish — and nobody tires of it.
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Places Ba Na is the one place near Da Nang where going independently is not obviously cheaper — the cable car alone eats most of the cost.
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Places The cheapest of the day tours, and the smartest — it leaves in the afternoon and reaches Hoi An exactly when the Old Town is at its best.
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Places The only place near Da Nang where you can still snorkel over living coral — the water is clear enough that you need a snorkel, not a tank.
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Places The most-skipped UNESCO site in the Da Nang tour range — it sits deep in a valley, with no beach and nothing to ride.
Read more →The easiest tour in the day-trip range for children and older travellers — no climbing, no diving, just a basket boat drifting through the palms.
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Places Hue is only 100km from Da Nang but a different world: slower, quieter, and a few hundred years older.
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Places Three days is enough for the main cluster: My Khe beach, the Son Tra peninsula, the Golden Bridge and an evening in Hoi An. A moderate pace, no rushing.
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Places Two days is right for the Imperial City and two tombs. Do not try to cram all three tombs into one day — you will be tired and remember nothing.
Read more →Signs for bun bo Hue hang everywhere, but most places only borrow the name. These six tell you from the first bowl.
Read more →Da Nang has no single late-night district. It splits by area, each with its own character. Know which area sells what and you stop guessing.
Read more →Hue has the most intricate cooking in Vietnam, and its own rhythm: some dishes are morning, some afternoon, some only sold at night.
Read more →Bun bo Hue is a breakfast dish. Most of the good places open at six and stop when the pot is empty — many are cleaned out before eight.
Read more →We make and sell fermented fish sauces and pickles in Đà Nẵng. The product pages are still in Vietnamese only.
Translated so far: 63 articles in English, plus the map and all 11 province pages. The Vietnamese site has more.